To make a cowl hood setup work, the edge of the cowl needs to be really close to the windshield, and I love the look of cowl hoods (on our Mavericks I think a 2" or maximum of 3" cowl is the limit, most aftermarket fiberglass cowl hoods for our cars are over 4.5".and I think they look awful).but then you need an open element to make it work or a tunnel ducted directly to the carb to take advantage of the high pressure air at the base of the windshield. I had a factory cowl induction air cleaner setup on my 68Z28.but a real scoop would have produced more HP. Hood scoops/cowl induction/ramair/NACA ducts.if you are racer looking for the last couple of HP then go for it.as far as NASCAR goes, they have no other way to get air into the carb/now injection because it has to look like a factory hood, no scoops or cowl induction.etc. As far as our purposes, for 98% of us, I believe it comes down to individual aesthetic preference. Think back in your mind’s eye catalogue of vintage cars, you should be able to pluck out several examples the shape being used prior to the hood scoop. Some aerodynamic genius (literally) way back when figured out that if he created a low pressure zone right before the inlet, more air could and would be drawn in by speeding up the air on the way in. Looking at the picture below, the ducts have “feed ramps” into the tubes. The cowl itself creates a pressure zone, this zone will change depending on the size, shape and closeness of the cowl to windshield affecting it's air density. Air itself becomes four times as dense at double the speed. The inlet or snorkel shape and size will affect air density, how much air is available to be forced in. It all depends on the opening and aerodynamics of the hood scoop. As far as functionality goes, I think that’s going to get vague real quick.
0 kommentar(er)
